First Trip 2021: Bear Creek, May 11

I basically haven’t fished during the pandemic. I think I went out twice in May and June of 2020, and that was it. I don’t know why. It’s been a strange year of sheltering, my son doing 100% online school, and endless Zoom meetings. Same for many people, I guess. Since I almost never see another person on the streams I fish, it’s not as if I couldn’t have safely gone out. Well, anyway. I went back out yesterday.

At first, I was determined to fish new water. So I went to the Maquoketa River at the 400th St. bridge, just north of Backbone State Park. I’d fished the Maquoketa a little bit further downstream, where I emerged at the mouth of Richmond Springs and went upstream for a while. Hadn’t seemed like much then. Didn’t seem like much now. The water level was low and very clear. I saw a few trout and had one strike, but it was mostly dead. The thing that doesn’t sell me about the stream, at least in this stretch, is that it’s mostly a sand bottom with relatively little structure. It just didn’t seem to be happening, so I packed up pretty quickly and went to Bear.

There was one vehicle in the parking lot. That used to put me off, but mostly I find you usually don’t even see the other angler. That was the case today. I ended up by the usual downstream starting pool. The water level was again very low and the water clear. I think I must have hit it on stocking day. There were fresh truck tracks. The fish were all piled up in the stocking pools and it was kind of feast and famine. When they first go in, they’ve never actually been in a stream before, and they take a while to figure it out and spread out. What happened was typical – I fished a few different things and settled on small olive streamers, first a #12 woolly bugger and when I lost that, #12 slumpbusters. Each cast would be chased by three or four trout, but they were skittish about striking. I caught two at the first pool, but could see more than 20.

At the next deep pool downstream, it was just dense with fish. I rapidly caught another dozen. I dunno. I guess it was fun. Hauling out generic stocker rainbows. I guess it’s better than not hauling out generic stocker rainbows.

Generic stocker rainbow.

I’ve stopped manically photographing every fish, and if possible I just keep them in the water and remove the hook.

Bear is a bit constrained now. Last year the landowner blocked off downstream access at the end of the stocked section. You used to be able to walk down to the confluence of Bear and Brush, but now there’s a fence across the track and a rope strung across the stream. Which doesn’t leave much room for misinterpretation.

I fished the entire length of the stocked section for the first time in two years. Some pools have been removed by floods. I have to say, my heart wasn’t fully into it. I’ve done nothing during the pandemic, and I felt shockingly out of shape. And kind of old. And I got sunburned. It was the same all the way up. The stocking pools were just stuffed with trout. I didn’t see a brookie anywhere, all 10-11″ rainbows.

The huge pool at the top was similar. I couldn’t really even be bothered, caught a couple and moved on. Venturing upstream at least broke the monotony. There were some trout, but I started catching other things as well.

Common shiner, with spawning tubercles.
Creek chub, with spawning tubercles.

Smallmouth bass.

Another largish smallie.

It’s private land, but I met the landowner a couple of years ago and he said it was all right to fish. However before I got too far I saw that he’d built a cabin or something similar, brand new on the creek bank. I could hear people. And I wasn’t, you know, going to walk right into their privacy. I was tired anyway.

Just upstream from the main stocked section.

It was a lovely day, I’ll say that. About 60F and sunny, and it was nice to be on the water again.

The final tally was 22 stocker rainbows, 15 creek chub, four common shiner, three smallmouth bass, and two rock bass. I think I could have pretty easily caught at least double the number of rainbows if I’d been obsessive about it, but I was kind of like “They’re not doing me any harm, so…”

Spring Broke 2018: Day One

Another year, another seven night cabin booking at Backbone State Park.  This year the weather gods more or less cooperated and we stayed all seven nights and fished all but one of the days.  It was mostly hard work in brisk winds and borderline temperatures, but it was great to be on the water again and we caught trout every day we were out, sometimes in pretty marginal conditions.

We were in Cabin 5, the same place we started out with our first two night booking during spring break two years ago (feels like more than two years, which is strange, because academically the years are whipping by so fast it’s like I can barely hang on).  I managed to get cabin booking organized early this year, so actually was able to make a bunch of weekend reservations during the spring. I have two weekends, including Mother’s Day, with James’s mother along in larger cabins (the house-sized Cabin 10 and the intermediate “Owl’s Nest).  James and I are doing another weekend in Cabin 5.  And I have a solo weekend plus a post-finals-week stretch of five nights in Cabin 5.  The only downside is that Cabin 5 is showing a fair bit of wear and tear.  I think we weren’t long after a renovation when we started coming, but everything is kind of banged up now.  The stove is chipped, and when the oven was preheating it locked up with a flashing F10 error code.  The every now and then access to cell data was enough to figure out that it meant a runaway temperature, and was most likely a failing temperature sensor.  I had to trek outside and find the breaker and flip it to get it to reset.  It didn’t act up again, but I cooked at a lower temperature (400 vs 450).  Also, pretty sure the old septic needs emptying, as there were some occasional wafts of foulness from the bathroom drains.  And the shower and handbasin drains were nearly clogged and slow draining.  You got like two minutes in the shower before it threatened to overflow the stall.  Natch, had I known all of that I’d have gone for a different cabin as I had my choice.  I’ve stayed in Cabin 5 more than any other, and it was mainly for nostalgic reasons.

Anyway, it wasn’t the end of the world.  James got the bedroom, despite my increasing arguments about age before beauty, so I was stuck on the futon with my sleeping bag liner and down quilt borrowed from my ultralight gear.

The big surprise weather-wise was the amount of snow.  The snow was basically all gone from the Iowa City-Cedar Rapids area.  A little bit north of Cedar Rapids we began to see a lot.  By the time we got up to Backbone, it was clear it had yet to really melt.  Snow everywhere, big piles of it from the plows.  I was quite worried that some of the little stream access roads, which aren’t plowed in the winter, would be problematic.  Temperatures were set to range from highs of 37 to 52 in Iowa City during the week.  A couple of hours north, it seemed you could basically subtract six from that for the daytime highs.

Cooking is part of the whole cabin in the woods daydream.  Backbone cabins are probably the closest I’ll ever get to weekends at the cabin in the woods, so bringing in groceries from the car and whatnot is part of the appeal.  The first evening I made Smoky Fish Chowder, which I’ve tweaked from a New York Times recipe (bacon, leeks, potatoes, hot smoked paprika, white wine, whole milk, fish stock, thyme sprigs, Alaskan cod, sea scallops, served with oyster crackers).

The first day (Sunday March 11) we headed to STSNBN.  The road was unplowed and snowy, but people had been over it recently.  It would have been dodgy in the old Malibu, but the Jeep-branded crossover (plenty of clearance and genuine four wheel drive, despite it being about the poorest Jeep-branded excuse for a four wheel drive you can buy) handled it without trouble.

Still winter at STSNBN.

Continue reading Spring Broke 2018: Day One

Black Hills Expedition 2017: Grace Coolidge Creek, South Dakota, June 21

In late June James and I set off for a combination tourist/fly fishing trip to South Dakota and Wyoming.  I left it late to book, but it turned out that there were cabins in Custer State Park that are also a surprisingly cheap $50 a night.  They aren’t as nice as the ones here in Backbone for the same price.  They are called “camping cabins.”  They have electricity, but no washrooms or kitchens, just lights and an air conditioner.  They have two sets of bunk beds, a little table, a chair, a couple of benches, and that’s all. You’re not allowed to cook in them, but there’s a big wooden porch and picnic table outside, so you can bring a cooler and cook on a Coleman stove, or whatever.  There are also showers and modern washrooms in the campground.

Anyway, another massively long drive up through western Minnesota and most of the breadth of South Dakota.  It was at least new, if not really much of an improvement on Nebraska.  We got into Keystone, a tourist trap town near Mount Rushmore, in time to get dinner.

Keystone.  It has a captive clientele, and it’s only as good as it needs to be.  Which isn’t very.

Continue reading Black Hills Expedition 2017: Grace Coolidge Creek, South Dakota, June 21

2017 June 16 – Super Secret Trophy Water

I was pining to take James to the newly discovered paradise (relatively speaking…for eastern Iowa, anyway) on Earth, so we headed out eight days later. Unfortunately it was once again on the heels of thunder and this time the stream was badly blown out.  We went upstream seeking better water and it did clear as we fished, but we only saw (and caught) a single trout.  James cleaned up on creek chub, though, and as is becoming alarmingly common, he trounced me on the overall fish count.  As is also common, I heard about it for days afterwards.  In addition to the water being off, it was extremely hot, well up in the 90s, and we were in danger of melting.  James was debuting brand new Orvis waders that he got for his birthday.  They were much lighter than his old ones.  This was great for him.  However I’ve been used to him manfully struggling to keep pace.  Now he started disappearing around bends and there were more than a few shouts of “WAIT FOR DADDY!”

A little snake on the bank.

Continue reading 2017 June 16 – Super Secret Trophy Water

2017 June 08 – Super Secret Trophy Water

Following the cabin stay I headed out west to Utah and Nevada for fieldwork, the first of five long western trips during the year.  Unlike 2016, however, I didn’t take James and I didn’t do any fishing.  The trip got ended early due to the record snow pack in the west – we couldn’t get to the final locality in southeastern Idaho because it was still under snow in June.  Oh well, more time for fishing.

I was itching to return to SSTW and explore it further, so the first day I had available saw me getting on the water there as early as I could.  This time I explored a completely different section of the stream.  I was a bit worried when I started because there’d been some thunder and the water was somewhat off colour.  Didn’t matter.

Murk.  It came and went – at various spots little springs entered from the bank and for a long stretch they entered through a really fissile shale unit.  They picked up a fierce amount of sediment and were pumping muddy water into an otherwise much less off colour stream.  Didn’t spoil anything, though.

Continue reading 2017 June 08 – Super Secret Trophy Water

Cabin Fever Day Five: 2017 May 26 – Super Secret Trophy Water

After three days of heavy fishing I felt old.  And tired.  This is alarming.  I had also run out of slump busters.  So on the fourth day, I relaxed and tied flies in the cabin all day.  I recharged my batteries.  Which turned out to be a good thing, because I was about to stumble onto something epic on Day Five.

My Tacky Big Bug Box with newly tied size 10 olive and black slump busters,  These turned out to be not that useful – they’re too heavy to fling around with a tenkara rod and enter the water like depth charges.  It’s funny, because size 12 works great.

Continue reading Cabin Fever Day Five: 2017 May 26 – Super Secret Trophy Water

Cabin Fever Day Three: 2017 May 24 – Protected Browns Water

On the third day I visited a favourite special regulation catch and release only stream with wild brown trout. Given that Bear Creek had cleared quite a lot while I fished it through the previous day, I was hopeful I’d get back to clear water.  Well, no.  It was very high and murky.  As the black slump buster had worked under similar conditions early on the preceding day, I decided to put some effort into in and see what I could make of it.  I ended up fishing the length of the accessible stream upstream from the parking lot.  It wasn’t a banner day, but it was a pretty good day.  Taken together, these results give me a lot more confidence in what I can accomplish when the streams are off colour.

This is as high and off colour as I’ve ever tried to fish this stream.  It worked just fine, though, with a dark streamer.

Continue reading Cabin Fever Day Three: 2017 May 24 – Protected Browns Water

Cabin Fever Day Two: 2017 May 23 – Bear Creek, Fayette County, IA

The previous day had been lovely, but thunderstorms moved in and pounded the region in the middle of the night.  They’d passed through by morning and the sun was poking through, but I was very worried that everywhere was going to be blown out.  I had hoped to go to Hickory Creek, but it blows out really badly with any rain at all.  I hmmed and hahed and in the end decided to check out home waters.  I figured it if was shot, Grannis wasn’t far away and had a decent chance of being okay.  Grannis is very crowded, but in 2015 I managed a decent weekday at it.

Thundery weather moving off and breaking up.  It eventually cleared, and from mid-morning was another glorious sunny day.

Continue reading Cabin Fever Day Two: 2017 May 23 – Bear Creek, Fayette County, IA

Cabin Fever Day One: 2017 May 22 – Sny Magill Creek, Clayton County, IA

The trip started with one of the longest, most satisfying days of fishing of the year.  Sny Magill is very heavily fished and equally heavily stocked, but it’s a long stream and so far in my experience it’s possible to find decent solitude, at least when you’re able to fish on weekdays, and especially in the upper reaches.  I started at the uppermost parking lot, and fished the furthest upstream decent water, a stretch I’d fished several times in 2016.  The first hookup was a bit of a surprise.  Solid strike and a furious fight.  I assumed it was a brown.  Well, no.

My sucker identification skills are nascent, but my best guess is that this handsome devil is a white sucker.

Continue reading Cabin Fever Day One: 2017 May 22 – Sny Magill Creek, Clayton County, IA